All about the use of oxides for hair dye

Oxides are essential to the process of getting the ideal color for your hair. These potent ingredients are in charge of triggering the color, which enables it to enter the hair shaft and produce vivid, long-lasting effects. Knowing how oxides function can greatly impact your hair coloring experience, regardless of whether you’re going for a subtle or dramatic change.

In order to regulate the degree of lift and deposit, oxides and hair dye are frequently combined. The choice of oxide strength will dictate how light or dark you

What is an oxide and how does it work

Paint oxide is an oxidizing agent derived from hydrogen peroxide that is used to initiate a chemical reaction in semi-permanent and chemically permanent paints to expose the pigment and pierce the layers of hair.

Paint oxide may go by different names according to different sources and manufacturers:

• Oxidant;
• Oxigent;
• Activator;
• Oxidant.

The oxidant has a very straightforward mechanism of action: upon contact with hair, the remedy’s alkaline environment is transferred to it due to its alkaline pH of 9.2-10.4. The hair’s cuticle opens and the hitch of scales weakens as the hair turns alkaline, not neutral.

The oxide breaks down into the inner section of the hair rod when the hair forms, where it combines with the natural pigment found in hair. It creates space for artificial pigment particles to take the place of natural pigment particles, giving the hair the desired shade of color.

The degree of damage to the cuticle and natural pigment, as well as the intensity of coloring, are determined by how aggressive the oxide is. The percentage of hydrogen peroxide in relation to the total mass determines how aggressive the oxidizer is.

The oxide may be:

• 1.2% – this means 12 ml of hydrogen peroxide is used per 1 liter of oxide;
• 1.5% – 15 ml;
• 3% – 30 ml;
• 6% – 60 ml;
• 9% – 90 ml;
• 12% – 120 ml.

The cuticle of the hair shaft will open more as the hydrogen peroxide percentage rises, displacing more natural pigment and filling the empty spaces with synthetic pigment molecules.

It turns out that the 6% and 3% oxidizers differ in how aggressively the oxide acts on the hair; the 6% oxidizer acts more actively, and the 6% oxidizer’s coloring will make the difference more noticeable. This analogy holds true for all other oxides with varying concentrations.

The concentrations of hydrogen peroxide listed above are typical and standard, however certain manufacturers create oxides that are not typical. For instance, the DIA developer for L’Oreal is 1.8%, while the activator for Matrix COLOR SYNC is 2.7%.

Apart from hydrogen peroxide, the oxidizing agent consists of:

• Conservatives – they prevent the growth of microbes and retain the freshness of the product;
• Emulgators – components that make the product homogeneous and provide mixing of those substances that are not mixed under ordinary conditions – for example, water and oils;
• Fragrances – ingredients to neutralize an unpleasant odor;
• Useful components – vitamins, plant extracts, oils, lipids.

If required, you can combine oxides with varying peroxide percentages to obtain an intermediate concentration, such as:

• If you mix 1 part 3% of oxide with 1 part 6%, you get an oxidizing agent 4.5%
• Adding to 2 parts 12% oxide 1 part 3% oxide, you will get 9% oxide.

Please be aware that you will never obtain the strongest oxide (12%), or the weakest oxide (1.2%), by combining different oxides.

Oxide: reading the label

Let’s now quickly review the product label and determine how to correctly identify the type of oxide you are looking at.

The oxide bottles have two primary indicators:

As we’ve already established, percentage indicates the ratio of hydrogen peroxide added to the oxidizer.

But what does volume mean on the oxide package?

The volume of oxygen released during a chemical reaction is known as volume, or vol. in English.

The percentage of hydrogen peroxide is actually repeated in the vol indicator, albeit with a different notation scheme.

Therefore, a product with 10 volume, for instance, always equates to 3 percent peroxide in the composition, and a product with 6 percent peroxide will always have 20 vol.

Furthermore, the amount of oxygen released serves as a guide and indicates the level of activity of the oxide as well as the color outcomes it will help to achieve:

• 10 vol products. will help to dye your hair in the same tone or change the color by 1 tone;
• 20 vol. – for 2 tones and so on.

Prioritize the percentage when selecting an oxide; we will explain which is best for what uses later. Vol. is merely an extra guideline.

Purpose of oxides of different concentrations

Since the oxidizer’s activity determines the outcome and level of impact on the hair, various dye activators are employed for distinct applications. We will then go over how to determine the appropriate oxide percentage for each task.

Up to 4.5%

A soft oxidizer is an activator for hair coloring that has a hydrogen peroxide concentration of 1.2% to 4.5%. These developers behave quite delicately and are excellent for ammonia-free dyes.

By using a low percentage of dye, you can minimize structural damage to the hair shaft while preserving as much of your natural pigment as possible.

Up to 4.5% of oxide is appropriate for:

• Tinting natural hair tone on tone;
• Easy change of natural shade within 1 tone;
• Neutralization of unnecessary undertone on dyed hair;
• Bleached hair – when toning or correcting the background.

Such a small percentage of oxidants won’t help you fix a significant hair color issue or drastically alter your appearance. For example, using 3% oxide dye to lighten your hair by more than one tone or to change the color of your hair from red to blue won’t work.

Contrary to popular belief, hair coloring is not less durable when 3% oxides and other activators from this group are used. The artificial pigment is washed out much more slowly because there is less damage to the hair cuticle, extending the duration of the color.

6%

The most popular oxidizer, which is typically included in kits of domestic hair dyes that are used at home. Its versatility—being a borderline oxide between more concentrated and aggressive oxides and soft oxides—explains why it is so common.

6% oxide is appropriate for:

• Covering gray hair – oxides up to 6% will not cope with this task;
• Changing hair color by 1-2 color levels.

Although the degree of hair shaft destruction is not great, it is more apparent than when the percentage is low.

9%

As 9% oxide degrades hair quality, it is already regarded as heavy weaponry and should not be used unless absolutely necessary.

It is employed when necessary:

• Paint over problem gray hair that cannot be dyed with lower oxides;
• Lighten hair by 2-3 tones;
• Dye dark hair.

Working with a high percentage carries some risk for the hair’s quality. The majority of the natural pigment is neutralized and the hair shaft’s scaly layer is significantly loosened when exposed to 9% oxidizer.

12%

Using an activator like this for paint, or hair, is a drastic approach. When required, it is applied in extraordinary circumstances:

• Radically change the image;
• Maximize hair with 3-4 tones.

Twelve percent oxide is the most damaging to hair rods. He causes them to become dry and brittle, so following the coloring process, the hair needs to be nourished and moisturized in addition to being shielded from the elements (high temperatures, dry air, and UV rays). Not advised for use at home.

It is not customary to select an oxide based on hair type, as the girl’s and her master’s goals should always come first. The only thing to keep in mind is that aggressive oxides will be more damaging to hair that is porous, brittle, and dry. It is not advised to do cardinal dyeing on severely damaged hair; instead, focus on tinting and color correction using gentle 1.5–4.5% oxides.

How to use an oxide and precautions

You now know how to select an oxidizer for coloring; all that’s left to do is learn how to apply it properly.

First and foremost, make sure you always read the instructions for a particular paint and oxide. The guidelines for blending the composition for coloring can be significantly altered by manufacturers, even in spite of the widely recognized guidelines.

You can adjust the mixing percentage to accomplish a variety of effects, such as strong pigmentation and intense lightening, but doing so requires an understanding of coloristics; conducting these kinds of experiments on your own is not advised.

How to combine oxide and paint:

1. Squeeze the oxidizer into a non-metal container, and then the paint itself. Usually the ratio of the products is 1 to 1, but always follow the instructions for a specific product;
2. Stir the compositions until smooth, but do it quickly – the reaction between the components begins almost immediately;
3. Apply the resulting mixture to your hair.

The length of an oxide exposure depends on its concentration; details regarding this need to be made clear in a set of instructions. The duration typically lasts between thirty-five and an hour.

Take these precautions when handling oxide:

• Add exactly as much oxide as required by the instructions. If there is too much oxidizer, the hair will become brittle and dry, if not enough, the color will be uneven;
• Stay with the composition exactly according to the instructions. If you wash it off too early, you will get unevenly colored strands, and if you wash it off too late, the hair will suffer significant damage to its quality;
• Prepare the coloring mixture immediately before the procedure. Chemical processes start almost instantly and the longer the coloring mixture stands, the less likely it is to work on the hair;
• Before using the paint, do an allergy test – mix a small amount of paint and oxide and apply to the elbow or to the skin behind the ear. Stay for 20-30 minutes, then wash off and observe the skin for at least 30 minutes. If there is no reaction, the paint can be used as intended;
• Avoid getting a coloring mixture in the eyes, and if this happens, immediately rinse the mucous membrane with clean running water.

The best brands of oxidizers

An oxidizer is already included when purchasing household paint in a box, so you don’t need to purchase one separately. For permanent paints that contain ammonia, this is typically a 6% oxide; for ammonia-free options, it is 1.5–3%.

You will need to purchase the oxidizer separately if you are a hairstylist or use professional hair coloring products.

Is it possible to use an oxide from one company and a coloring emulsion from another?

It is feasible in theory—many hairdressers operate in this manner. However, bear in mind that manufacturers only test the compatibility of oxides and paints under their own brands during production. It is unknown how products from various companies will be received.

We advise you to think about five different oxidizer brands. After that, you might want to familiarize yourself with these brands’ dyes.

IGORA

A division of the cosmetics company Schwarzkopf is Igora. Standard oxidizing agents 3, 6, 9, and 12% are available from the company on an oil basis. They mix quickly with coloring emulsion and are easily removed with water.

Igora oxides are not abundant in beneficial ingredients, but their "purity" when applied to hair and their reasonable cost make up for this.

Matrix

Similar to Igora, Matrix offers standard oxidizers ranging from 3 to 12% in addition to a 2.7% activator for their ammonia-free Color Sync dye line.

L’Oreal

Apart from the conventional concentration of standard cream oxidizers, L’Oreal offers an intermediate activator line called Dia.

One thing that sets them apart is the unique polymer that keeps the coloring consistent and safeguards the hair structure.

Kapous

Cream oxides are manufactured by Kapous both under its own brand and the Studio auxiliary brand. Oxides ranging from 1.5 to 12% are provided in both scenarios. The oxidizers from Studio contain rice proteins and plant extracts, while the oxides from Kapous are composed of hyaluronic acid and mineral oils.

Ollin

Ollin offers the widest range of oxidizers among all the brands mentioned. The products come in a range of concentrations and are arranged in multiple lines. The Megapolis series, for instance, offers emulsions of 1.7% and 2.7%.

Performance ranges from 1.5 to 9% and oxidizers 4 and 8% are available in the N-JOY line. From 1.5 to 12%, all standard oxides fall into the OXY series.

Questions

What is the oxidizer’s consistency?

Lotion or cream is the usual method of release used for oxidizers. The paint’s texture, which is typically creamy, influences the choice of consistency. In this instance, there are no issues during the mixing process, resulting in a homogeneous and uniform mass.

How can the paint’s oxidizer percentage be decreased?

Adding an oxide with a lower percentage to it is the only method to lower the oxidizer percentage. In other words, you will obtain a 6% oxidizer if you add 3% to a 9% oxidizer.

What is beyond your power:

• Dilute the oxidizer with water;
• Dilute the oxidizer with shampoo or conditioner.

It is risky in the first place, and it is also nonsensical. There won’t be any mixing or mass-growth reaction when water is added to the oxidizing agent; instead, there will just be a layer of oxidizing agent and water; in other words, the percentage of peroxide in the main oxidizing mass won’t change. These experiments also result in the paint leaving stains on the hair. The same is true for shampoos and balms.

For clarification, what proportion of the oxidizing agent should be used?

Oxides 3 and 6% work best for lightning.

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Oxide Strength	Application
10 Vol (3%)	For toning, adding subtle color, or darkening hair by one level.
20 Vol (6%)	Used for covering gray hair, lightening hair by one to two levels, or achieving a natural-looking color.
30 Vol (9%)	Ideal for lightening hair by up to three levels or achieving a vibrant, bright color.
40 Vol (12%)	Used for high-lift colors or lightening hair by up to four levels, often in bleaching processes.

Oxides are essential for getting the ideal hair color because they combine with dyes to create a variety of shades. Making better decisions and ensuring that the outcomes live up to your expectations is made possible by having a thorough understanding of the various types and their effects.

Selecting the appropriate oxide can make all the difference, whether your goal is to cover up some gray areas or achieve a bold new look. You can find the volume and combination that works best for your desired hair type and color by experimenting.

To keep your hair healthy, use oxides sparingly, just like you would with any chemical procedure. You can maintain the strength and vibrancy of your hair while still getting amazing results with the correct technique.

The way hair dye works is largely dependent on oxides, which are essential for color development and durability. Knowing how oxides react with hair dye will help you get the exact shade you want, whether your goal is to cover up some gray hair or go for a bold new look. This post will explain how oxides function, help you select the best oxide for your hair type, and show you how to use them safely to get the greatest results.

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