Extensions on lower forms: we figure out with an expert how to make nails perfect

For people who find it difficult to grow their natural nails, nail extensions are a popular way to get longer, more elegant nails. The use of lower forms for extensions is one technique that has drawn interest. A more natural-looking nail is possible with this technique, which many people find superior to more conventional ones.

If you are new to nail extensions, using lower forms can be a little challenging, but anyone can learn how to do it with the correct instruction. It all comes down to choosing the appropriate materials, grasping the application technique, and comprehending the process. Understanding how to use lower forms effectively can change the game for anyone who does their own nails at home or works as a professional nail technician.

About the expert

One of Siberia’s greatest manicure and pedicure artists is Anastasia. having worked in the field for over 12 years. She is always learning new things, honing her craft, and experimenting with various nail art methods and techniques.

Exclusively for NAILS Magazine readers Anastasia consented to divulge the techniques for employing lesser forms. There aren’t many places where you can find as many helpful hints, life hacks, and tips.

What are lower forms and their types

Lower forms are templates that are used to model artificial nails by placing them on the natural nail.

You can lengthen the natural plate and give it any shape, such as square, stylet, almonds, or oval, by using the lower forms.

The variety of applications that the lower forms can be put to, the materials that they are composed of, and their adjustability to adjustments set them apart from one another.

Two categories are included in the primary classification:

• Disposable – used once per nail. Disposed of after the procedure;
• Reusable – processed and reused after extension.

Lightweight, adjustable materials are used to make disposable forms. When a client has unusual nails that call for a customized strategy and particular remedies, they are easy to work with.

Lower forms that are disposable can be made of:

• Metal foil;
• Plastic or polymer – usually transparent;
• Paper with a metal or polymer coating;
• Combinations of materials – combine the characteristics of 2-3 of the above forms.

Anastasia:

Paper forms are what I like to use because they provide a stylish arch and let you increase any shape—even a narrowed pipe—and they’re well-liked by my clients. I am able to select the nail bed cutout and modify the form’s placement. Other templates don’t offer this kind of room for action.

What makes up reusable forms are:

• Plastic resistant to deformation;
• Metal.

Reusable forms have benefits such as long life, no need for glue, stability during use, and inability to run out of stock suddenly. However, they also have drawbacks:

• Not suitable for special cases. Disposable lower forms can be adjusted to the features of the client"s nails, trimmed, bent. Reusable ones are not so flexible;
• Require processing. Reusable forms are subject to processing. Metal ones are processed in a full cycle – disinfection, pre-sterilization cleaning and sterilization, and plastic ones are processed in a simplified system – with disinfection and PSO.

Anastasia:

Since reusable plastic forms do not come into contact with blood or other biological fluids, masters typically do not process them. However, I advise performing the fundamental treatment in an ultrasonic cleaner set no higher than 60 degrees.

Benefits of smaller forms

• Suitable for natural nails of any length – you can extend any natural plate, even the shortest;
• Allow you to model any shape – from a classic square or oval to a creative stiletto;
• You can extend any length. If desired, the forms can be glued together and even meter-long nails can be extended, if required. It is this advantage that makes them in demand for competition works – you can create whatever the master wants.

The drawbacks of lesser forms

• Complexity of installation. Lower forms require special attention when setting – if you rush, the arches on the nails will be different;
• The apex zone and stress zone will have to be given special attention. In order for the nails to be rushed for a long time, when working with the lower forms, you need to correctly make a substrate, and then finish the zones of stress and apex.

Who are the lower forms suitable for

The lower forms are more versatile and can be applied to nearly any type of nail, although they work best on:

• Tramp-shaped and trapezoid nails;
• Girls with an elongated nail bed;
• For standard nails without visible deviations.

If the girl has a short nail bed or damaged nails, it can be a little harder to work with the lower forms; in this situation, doing extensions with the upper forms will be simpler. However, if desired, even problematic nails can be extended with the lower forms; in this case, the expertise of the master and their prior work experience matter more than the original state of the nails.

Anastasia:

For non-professionals and masters who have not yet worked with lower forms, I do not advise this kind of extension. A seemingly straightforward technique has a lot of subtleties. It is preferable to receive training before wasting time on independent study if you want to begin building up on the lower forms.

Materials for extension on lower forms

Nails on lower forms can be extended using a variety of materials; the master’s personal habits, preferences, and desires will ultimately determine the choice.

The following are employed throughout the process:

• Gels: modeling liquid gels, soufflé, cream gels;
• Polygel:
• Acrylic.

Gels

The thick, liquid gel that polymerizes in a lamp is the foundation of gel technology. Liquid does not soften gel nails, so a milling cutter will be necessary to remove them.

Consider the consistency of the gel when extending; it’s crucial to select a density that will be comfortable for you to work with.

• Gels with a thick consistency do not have self-leveling properties. This means that after drying, you will need to file the nail;
• Liquid gels require skill and patience. You can"t do 5 or 10 nails with liquid gel at once – you will have to act in several stages, each time checking how well the material is distributed. Liquid gel nail extensions can be done using the “no filing” technique or with minimal intervention in the finished form.

Acrylic

The acrylic system consists of two parts: the monomer and the actual acrylic powder. When combined, they create a single mass that doesn’t need a lamp to polymerize outside.

The process of applying acrylic extension is straightforward: a monomer or liquid is used to moisten the brush, which is then dipped into the material and transformed into a plastic mass that just needs to be leveled. Most of the time, neither leveling nor filing are required.

Polygel

The product of combining the qualities of gel and acrylic is polygel. This substance is ready to use and dries in a lamp.

Using polygel is comparatively easy; all you have to do is level the material layer and moisten the brush with a degreaser. Leveling the layer doesn’t require you to turn over, and filing is only usually necessary if you arrange more material than is necessary.

Anastasia:

Never take advice from others at face value. Every master should select the material that best suits their needs, taking into account wear time, application ease, and other factors. It is detrimental to oneself to concentrate on other masters, as the most important thing is to work with what you enjoy. You cannot work with your soul in any other way.

Examine various options, weigh their pros and cons, and then decide which material to use for the lower forms’ extensions only after doing so.

Nail extensions on the lower forms: step-by-step instructions

You can start the process right away once you’ve chosen the material for the extension. Since paper-based disposable lower forms are the most widely used, this technology will be used as the foundation for the remaining instructions.

The basic principles of modeling will remain the same whether working with reusable templates or forms composed of different materials; the only difference will be how to account for the forms’ lack of malleability.

Preparatory stage

Every master models in a different way; each determines the order in which to carry out particular manipulations. Some people model their nails after performing a hygienic manicure; others wait to touch the cuticle until the very end of the extension and only deal with it once the artificial nail has reached the desired shape.

Regardless of the option you select at this point, you must:

1. Sand the natural nail and trim the free edge;
2. Degrease the nail plate and cover it with a primer;
3. Apply a thin layer of base – it will strengthen the adhesion between the nail and the material;
4. Dry the applied material;
5. Substitute the form. Please note that when working with disposable forms, it is important to adjust the template individually for each nail, taking into account its structure.

Installing the forms

Anastasia:

In my opinion, the proper positioning and cutting of the form determines fifty percent of the success of subsequent extensions. I advise giving this step extra consideration, particularly during the training phase.

How to set up the lower forms for extensions correctly:

• Take the form and apply it to the free edge of the natural nail. If the form is not deep enough, trim it with scissors;

• Determine the points of nail growth and make small notches on the form where it touches them. Make a cut along the notches at an angle of 45 degrees;

• Cut out the form along the marked notches so that the side rollers fit tightly into the cutouts and do not allow the form to stick out later;

• Place the resulting blank close to the nail bed and glue the ears of the form;

• Glue the bottom of the form to the very tip, observing symmetry – it is important that the edges of the template come together evenly;

In the video, Anastasia also covered the correct way to install the lower forms for extensions:

Modeling

You can start modeling right away after setting up the forms and preparing the nail plate.

Modeling with gel

• Lay out a thin layer of gel of the length you plan to extend plus 0.5 mm – this is a margin for filing. Try to immediately give the substrate the shape of the future nail, so that later you will have to file less;
• Dry the substrate in the lamp;

Anastasia:

It is preferable to file the substrate into the appropriate shape—almond, square, oval, or stiletto—as soon as it has dried. In this instance, filing the completed nail will be minimal because the self-leveling gel you apply in the following step will take on the desired shape right away.

• Start smoothing the material onto the already dried layer. If the gel is liquid, start with a drop, which we gradually stretch. It makes no sense to level thick gels, so just lay out the required amount of material;
• Send the material to dry in the lamp. With liquid gel, dry the nails one by one, with thick – the whole hand;
• After 30 seconds, press each nail with clips or tweezers – this will help to form a beautiful arch, and dry the material;

• Take the nails out of the lamp, remove the clamps and remove the lower forms;

Anastasia:

1. Without a form, it is easier for the client to place his hand evenly in the lamp;
2. Sometimes the nail needs to be pressed not from above, but from below, and the form prevents this;
3. After 30 seconds, the material has already set, but is still flexible – this allows you to form a beautiful arch.

• Proceed to filing – trim the length on all five nails. Note: the middle nail should be slightly longer than the index and ring fingers. The latter are filed to the same length;
• When filing, carefully work in the apex area – do not over-file this part of the nail, since the entire structure is held on it;
• Use a buff on the surface of the modeled nail, brush off the dust, and use a degreaser on the nails. You can proceed to the design;
• After creating and drying the design, cover the nails with a top.

Modeling with acrylic and polygel

Working with acrylic and polygel is simpler than with gel, at least when it comes to shape modeling. For these materials, a base is not necessary.

• Buff the nail plate, brush off the dust and wipe the surface of the nail with a degreaser;
• Apply a thin layer of primer – it will improve the adhesion between the nail and the material;
• Use a damp brush to pick up a small portion of acrylic or polygel and immediately begin to model the shape. At this stage, you need to give the future nail the desired outlines as accurately as possible so that after drying you don"t have to file a lot;
• Dry the layer of material for 30 seconds and press it with clamps to form a beautiful arch;
• Wait until the acrylic or polygel has completely hardened;
• File along the side parallels and trim the free edge

Subsequently, you can apply the design: create a chic French manicure, try your hand at hand painting, apply a slider design, rub, glitter, or simply paint one color on your nails.

Mistakes when working with lower forms

Incorrect placement of the lower form

It is crucial that the natural nail and the form do not separate. Material that will be challenging to remove later will arrive if this is permitted. Furthermore, the issue here is more one of safety than beauty since, as the nail grows back naturally, the sag will adhere to clothing and hair, potentially injuring the nail plate.

Incorrectly glued form

When adhering the form, take care to preserve symmetry; otherwise, the arch will be uneven. A mistake like that is very hard to fix.

Make sure the auxiliary strip on the form appears precisely in the center after adhering it. Verify that the form has not moved to one side; if it has, the nail will appear uneven.

The shape of the natural nail is not taken into account

When dealing with smaller forms, consider the client’s nail characteristics.

• For trampoline-shaped nails, it is better to place the template slightly lower to correct their shape;
• For nails that grow downwards, the form is placed higher to create a beautiful arch;
• For smooth and problem-free nails, the form is flush with the plate, or just a little higher to create an arch.

A survival tip from Anastasia:

Do not immediately discard the paper form if you glued it incorrectly. To separate the ends and glue them again, gently heat the glued part with a lighter.

Questions

What is the price of nail extensions on smaller forms?

The area, the master’s degree, and the materials used all affect the cost. These extensions typically start at 1,500 rubles in price.

Which is preferable, the lower or upper forms?

This question lacks a definitive response. It is preferable for the expert to be proficient in both methods and select one depending on the client’s nail condition. For instance, the upper forms are perfect for clients who bite their nails, and the lower ones are much simpler to do a manicure yourself.

What is the duration of the extension for the lower forms?

The duration of wear ranges from two to four weeks. The length of the extensions and the rate at which natural nails grow will determine how often the nails are worn; the longer the nail, the less often it will be worn.

Concerns about utilizing the smaller forms? Ask questions in the comments section, and Anastasia and I will be pleased to respond.

Share with friends!

Lower form extensions are a great way to create long-lasting, gorgeous nails that look flawless and natural. With this method, the extension is built using specialized forms under the nail, giving you more control over the length and shape. You can guarantee a flawless, expert finish each and every time by learning the best techniques for achieving perfect nails with lower forms from an expert.

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3 comments on “Extensions on lower forms: we figure out with an expert how to make nails perfect”

Anastasia

Could you please advise whether, if I’m building up a square, the lower form should be installed as the nail grows or not?and how should an almond be installed?

ValentynaAzalea

For two months, will the nails last? Will they last if I simply alter the shape and color after a month?

Topic	Details
What are lower forms?	Lower forms are a type of nail extension that provides a natural look by shaping the nail from underneath.
Advantages	They are easy to apply, provide a strong base, and give a more natural appearance compared to other methods.
Preparation	Clean and prep the nails, push back cuticles, and shape the natural nails before starting.
Application	Place the lower form under the natural nail, apply the

Long, gorgeous nails can be achieved with extensions on lower forms. Anyone can become proficient in this method with a little practice and the appropriate techniques. You can create long-lasting, gorgeous nails by paying attention to the little things, like preparation and material selection.

Working under the direction of an expert guarantees that you pick up the best techniques and steer clear of typical blunders. This helps to preserve the integrity of your natural nails in addition to making the process simpler. You can create perfect extensions every time if you follow these professional tips.

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