Keratolytics for manicure: types, methods of application, brands

If you’re devoted to having the ideal manicure, knowing keratolytics can be quite helpful. These unique substances assist in controlling dead skin cells, giving the appearance of smooth, polished nails and cuticles. However, what are keratolytics precisely, and how do they function? We’ll examine the various kinds of keratolytics that are available, their practical applications, and the top brands in the industry in this post.

Keratolytics can be found in a variety of forms, such as pads, solutions, gels, and creams. It’s critical to select the type that best meets your needs because each has a unique application method and set of advantages. To assist you in selecting the ideal match for your manicure regimen, we’ll go over these possibilities.

We’ll also talk about a few well-known companies that sell high-quality keratolytics. You can choose wisely and get the best results from your nail care by being aware of the trustworthy brands. Prepare to up your manicure game with the best products on the market for keratolysis.

Type	Application Method	Brands
Salicylic Acid	Apply to rough skin, leave on for a few minutes, then rinse off	Neutrogena, Olay
Urea	Use in cream form, apply to dry areas, massage in	Eucerin, AmLactin
Glycolic Acid	Apply as a gel or solution, let sit for 10-15 minutes, then wash off	Alpha-H, The Ordinary
Ammonium Lactate	Apply as a lotion to affected areas, use daily for best results	Keratolac, Lac-Hydrin

Why do you need a keratolytic in a manicure

The popular methods of the European unedged, hardware, and classic edged manicures require different phases of cuticle removal and softening. Keratolytics are specialized products that can handle this task. They go by the names softeners or removers as well.

The product’s name itself reveals its basic mechanism of operation. The terms "lysis," which refers to the dissolving process, and "keratin," which denotes protein, combine to form the word "keratolytic."

The products help the master in cuticle processing and pterygium removal around the nail by softening and dissolving keratin, a structural component of skin, hair, and nails. The cuticle and pterygium’s softened or homogenized "gruel" skin can be easily removed with a pusher, orange stick, manicure scissors, or tweezers.

Keratolytic considerably shortens the amount of time that a master must spend treating hands in a salon or at home, and the skin around the nails looks beautifully groomed after the process.

The order in which removers or softeners are used in various manicure techniques can vary, as can the composition of each stage of action on the skin.

Types of keratolytics used in manicure

In order to select the best product, the master must comprehend the basic idea behind how keratolytics work on the skin. The causes of keratin softening are alkalis, acids, urea, or carbamide. They are removers’ primary structural elements. You have the following options for keratolytics in the professional cosmetics store for manicures:

• Alkaline;
• Acidic;
• Urea or carbamide based.

1. Alkaline keratolytic was one of the first options to appear on the market. It is the most aggressive in its effect on the skin and requires the use of a neutralizer after use. This is necessary in order to return the Ph level to the original, preventing further destruction of keratin.
2. Acidic keratolytics for manicure have replaced alkaline ones as softer and more gentle in their effect.
3. The third generation is urea-based softeners. They do not destroy keratin, but only saturate it and soften it, lifting the keratinized particles and facilitating their further removal.

Based on the Ph level, keratolytics are divided into acidic and alkaline categories. Neutral indicators range from 5.5 to 7 Ph. Everything above is alkali, and everything below is acid.

The degree to which the softener’s acidic or alkaline qualities are apparent depends on how far the Ph indicator deviates from neutral on the scale.

Alkaline removers for manicure

The compositions with the greatest intensity. A keratolytic with alkali typically has the prefix "Express" or "intensive" in its name.

In two to three minutes, they dissolve the cuticle and pterygium keratin, making it simple to remove from the nail’s surface. Neutralizers are either included with alkaline removers or must be purchased separately. You can use an all-purpose neutralizer that works with any kind of keratolytic made of acids and alkalis.

Soda ash, caustic potash, and EDTA are an alkaline keratolytic’s primary active ingredients. In addition to these, there are additional ingredients like oils, vitamin and mineral supplements, and herbal extracts that are meant to nourish and moisturize dry skin.

Acidic cuticle softeners

One characteristic of acidic keratolytics is their gentle, nurturing nature. produced using fruit, lactic, or salicylic acids as the basis.

They can incorporate multiple choices into a single composition. It is important to remember that lactic acid bleaches.

The acid softener becomes softer as the Ph value increases. These products typically have a working range of Ph 2-4. The acid product is exposed for two to three minutes. It is important to adhere to the instructions exactly. To maintain well-groomed hands, it is advised to use the product once every seven to ten days.

Urea keratolytics

They have a potent moisturizing and softening impact on the skin. They can be applied to vascular issues, diabetes, and post-chemotherapy. For those clients who cannot use acidic or alkaline softeners, urea is a suitable alternative. It calms skin irritation, speeds up epidermis exfoliation, and has a slight analgesic effect.

When using urea-based keratolytics, neutralizers are not necessary because they do not upset the pH equilibrium.

Alternative mineral and oil removers

Mineral softeners don’t include harsh ingredients that break down protein and cause skin irritation.

Calcium, magnesium, and zinc are listed as ingredients along with mineral or sea water. These mixtures work well for softening cuticles so they can be later cut with tweezers or scissors rather than for removal.

Oil removers deeply soften and nourish the epidermis, but they do not eliminate pterygium or rough skin. After being applied for ten to fifteen minutes, the skin is scraped off with scissors or cuticle snippers and pushed back with an orange stick or pusher.

These products are an alternative that are used for neat hands when doing housekeeping tasks.

Advantages and disadvantages of keratolytics

Similar to professional cosmetics, a high concentration of active ingredients causes benefits and drawbacks to appear when using. They each have unique usage guidelines and prohibitions.

Keratolytics benefits for manicures include:

• Fast action time of 1-3 minutes;
• Effective removal or softening of the cuticle;
• Painless action;
• Slowing down of cuticle growth;
• Versatility: can be used in both manicure and pedicure;
• Economy, especially when using liquid formulas;
• Can be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding;
• Long-term hydration in the case of carbamide keratolytics;
• The ability to choose economical products in each type of keratolytics.

Consequences and limitations:

• Possibility of allergic reactions to the components of the composition;
• Inability to use removers in the presence of even the smallest injuries and cracks on the skin surface;
• It is necessary to additionally use a neutralizer for alkaline and acidic keratolytics;
• If used incorrectly and not according to the instructions, chemical burns of varying degrees may occur.

Popular brands of removers

Softeners can be used exclusively for hand care, as well as for manicures and pedicures. This is typically stated on the label and is determined by how strongly the individual ingredients are combined. Hands have thinner, softer skin than the feet, which requires more active preparation.

The most widely used remover brands are:

Sagitta: acid, alkaline and urea options to choose from;

Keratolytics are crucial manicure instruments because they efficiently soften and remove dead skin, simplifying and enhancing nail care. This post explains the various kinds of keratolytics, how to apply them correctly, and features some well-known brands to help you get healthier, smoother cuticles and nails. Comprehending these products can improve your manicure game and guarantee the best results, regardless of whether you’re a professional or a do-it-yourself enthusiast.

How to do a manicure with a keratolytic: three techniques

In manicures, urea, alkaline, and acid keratolytics are all used.

Acidic options are the most favored ones. They facilitate the cuticle’s full removal by rapidly releasing it.

The percentage of urea should be considered when choosing urea removers. Up to 10% is a general cure, 10%–20% are professional salon professional preparations, and 20–30% is an aggressive mixture used for pedicures on tough and neglected feet.

Pure alkaline keratolytics are rarely used on hands because of their harsh composition and extreme skin drying effects. Master removers typically favor solutions that simultaneously combine acids and alkalis. With a composition like this, you can remove the cuticle quickly and gently, taking care of the skin in the process.

Three manicure techniques—the classic combined, hardware combined, and European unedged in both dry and wet versions—all use keratolytics. Let us examine each of the methods in detail.

Classic edged manicure in a combination technique with a remover

Can be carried out using a wet or dry method that involves soaking in water.

Phases of operation:

• The coating is removed from the nails, the length and shape are adjusted;
• With a pusher or an orange stick, the skin is gently pushed back along the perimeter of the nail;
• A keratolytic is applied to the cuticle or pterygium area using a brush or applicator tip;
• The product is kept for 1-3 minutes according to the instructions;
• For softeners, you can additionally soak your hands in warm water immediately after applying the product. Time ratio: keep for 1-2 minutes after application, plus 2-3 minutes of immersion in water (the example is relevant for Biogel from Derma Pharms);
• The product is washed off with water with a wet technique;
• For dry processing, the cuticle is wiped with micellar water or regular water using a cotton pad, and then a neutralizer is applied for alkaline and acidic versions of the product;
• Using a pusher or an orange stick, the remains of softened skin are removed and lifted. You can help yourself with a wet wipe;
• The open and raised cuticle is cut with scissors or nippers;
• The nail is treated with a dehydrator and primer;
• The coating is applied;
• The skin around the nail is treated with a caring gel or oil.

Hardware manicure in a combination technique with a remover

Although this combination of methods is not widely used, professionals do occasionally employ it. The tool is used to lift and open the cuticle, as well as to remove coatings and overgrown nails. After that, scissors or nippers are used in conjunction with a remover or keratolytic.

Order:

• Apply the remover to the raised cuticle and keep it on for the recommended time according to the instructions;
• Using a damp cloth, remove part of the softened skin and pterygium, remove the remains of the keratolytic;
• Cut the cuticle with scissors;
• Apply a degreasing and drying agent Nail Prep and a decorative coating;
• Treat the skin with oil or a caring composition.

European unedged manicure: dry and wet

Another name for it is acid unedged manicure. It is possible to execute the European technique with wet hands or without them. The final option is an unedged, wet manicure. What makes the difference?

Let’s examine it one by one:

• Remove the coating with a file, solvent or device;
• Push back the cuticle with a pusher or orange stick;
• Apply a keratolytic and leave for the recommended time from 1 to 5 minutes;
• Remove the softened cuticle with a pusher or stick;
• Apply a care product or oil.

You must use water or a damp cloth to remove any leftover remover from the nails before applying a coating or extending them, and you must apply primer and degreaser to the plates.

For a more thorough softening, immersion is used after applying the keratolytic in a European unedged manicure that involves soaking in water.

A well-groomed, unnecessary manicure can be maintained with an unedged manicure as part of a spa treatment. By using systemic care, you can give up on trimming and hardware techniques and achieve more moisturized, well-groomed cuticles.

Which keratolytics are you considering and which have you already tried? Which technique, in your opinion, is the most appropriate for keratolytics?

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Keratolytics are an essential part of contemporary manicure regimens because they provide a method for treating and managing the rough, dead skin that surrounds the nails. Knowing the various keratolytic types and how to use them can significantly improve your nail care regimen, whether you’re a professional or just someone who enjoys doing their own nails at home.

Keratolytics come in a variety of forms, each with a distinct function. While some concentrate on treating more difficult-to-reach areas like calluses and corns, others are made to soften and exfoliate the skin. By being aware of the variations, you can select the ideal product for your requirements and guarantee the best possible outcome from your manicure.

Correct application of keratolytics is necessary for both safety and efficacy. To prevent any possible irritation, always follow the directions that come with the product and think about doing a patch test beforehand. Applying it correctly not only leaves your skin looking better, but it also gives your manicure a more polished and clean appearance.

There are several brands that offer different keratolytic formulations. Several well-liked choices include well-known brands in the nail care sector. A more pleasurable manicure experience and improved results can be achieved by investigating various brands and selecting one that best meets your individual requirements.

All things considered, adding keratolytics to your manicure regimen can be revolutionary. You can improve the look and feel of your manicure by using the correct products and knowledge to get healthier, smoother skin around your nails.

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