Nail filing: types of shapes and techniques

One of the most important steps towards getting a polished and expert manicure is shaping your nails. Learning how to file your nails properly is crucial because it can significantly change how your hands appear overall.

There are many different nail shapes available, and each one has a unique vibe and style. Whatever your preference—a sleek oval, a striking stiletto, or a traditional square—any nail enthusiast must understand these shapes and how to make them.

You will learn about the various nail art forms and how to achieve them from this article. You can get the most out of your manicure by knowing these fundamentals, regardless of your level of experience with nail care.

Contents

Nail shapes
Choosing the length
Filing
Square shape
Oval and almond
Triangle and stiletto
Ballerina
Lipstick
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Nail shapes

Their names, which are similar on the outside, correspond to geometric shapes. Three considerations are taken into account when choosing the best shape:

Length;
Natural shape (straight parallels, trapezoid, rounded shape);
Cuticle shape.

It is advised that the cuticle’s shape be mirrored in the shape of the nail tips. Therefore, the best option is the one that most closely resembles the natural shape, with a minor adjustment made based on the client’s preferences and the nature of their daily activities (practicality).

List of the most well-liked nail designs:

Circle;
Oval;
Square: clear and soft;
Square oval;
Almond;
Triangular;
Ballerina.

You can adjust the combination of proportions in a number of other options based on these.

Choosing the length

How to determine the ideal length for a manicure:

It is necessary to compare all the nails from the cuticle line to the free edge, and choose the average desired length option, which can be designed on all fingers.
If the client wants to leave the maximum length, then comparing all the fingers, it is necessary to choose the shortest one and align all the others with it, so that the nails are the same on both hands. If one of the nails is broken or damaged, then we choose the next one by the minimum length, focus on it, and for the broken one we perform restoration with gel or acrylic.
The second case – the client wants to completely remove the length. In this situation, it is necessary to focus on the length of the nail bed, without the free edge. The longest nail bed on 8 nails, without thumbs, will become a guide for the rest of the fingers. It may be necessary to leave part of the free edge on some nails, so that when covering with color, they all look the same.
Separately compare 8 fingers on both hands without thumbs. We compare the thumbs only with each other, only approximately adjusting them to the rest proportionally.

The cuticle line of each finger should line up when comparing them side by side. And we measure the overall length of each pair of nails on both hands as well as the entire nail from the cuticle. The same length is chosen proportionately rather than in millimeters.

The largest should be left on the middle finger, since the plate on it is the shortest by nature.
Behind it, align the index and ring fingers equally.
The length on the little finger will be the shortest, since it naturally has the longest nail bed.

In the event that the client is a frequent visitor and a predetermined duration was previously established, it must be chosen and matched at every visit. It is important to consider that nails grow at varying rates on different fingers and hands.

Regardless of the length of the free edge itself, the length of the plates should be constant from the cuticle line. The smile line and the free edge won’t show through the coating. Consequently, you cannot expect all of your nails to have the same appearance by just leaving 1.5 or 5 mm on each one.

Filing

Filing is always carried out with orientation toward the central axis, which is a vertical line that is drawn from the cuticle to the free edge along the length of the plate.

Only the growth points along the plate’s edges are filed into the shape. Typically, the region surrounding the growth points experiences a small expansion. The protruding width must be removed, the shape must be corrected by drawing parallel lines on the sides, and the shape must not be severely narrowed or distorted overall.

What level of abrasiveness is appropriate for filing a file? Choices Grit sizes of 180 x 200, 200 x 200, and 200 x 220 work well. Anything under 180 is too coarse, and anything over 220 is already grinding. For ease of work, the file should be wide and slightly arched. If it’s new, the edges must be filed down with a buff to prevent cuts to the skin.

Square shape

The simplest shape to file is this one. Two categories exist:

Soft square;
Sharp square.

Distinguished by a distinct perpendicular line of the free edge in relation to the axis line and two edges that are parallel to the central axis.

The corners are distinct but not sharp when using a sharp square. They have a soft square, which is slightly rounded without going against the edge’s perpendicularity to the central axis.

How should the square be filed in order?

First, the file removes the length perpendicular to the central axis. The file works at an angle of 90 degrees in a straight line with left-right movements.
Here it is important to grab the client"s finger in such a way as to ensure good visibility of the direction of the file and not to "fall over" the perpendicular direction.
The next step is to file parallel even edges relative to the central axis. To do this, a wide file is inserted under the plate, brought to the point of growth, installed parallel to the axis and filing is performed.
Repeat, on the other side. Work carefully so as not to cut through the plates at the growth point, work only up to this point, starting the file from below. Do not start the file over the plate in the corners so as not to make cuts.

When the nails grow longer, they either "fly up" or mow down sharply if they grow in a trapezoid shape from the growth points towards the free edge.

It is advised to use a square file for this initial shape, but in order to achieve even lateral parallels, you will need to slightly narrow the nails in the direction of the free edge to avoid having them appear like "shovels." In the same proportion as the growth points’ expansion from the cuticle zone. It appears as though we are restoring the cuticle’s original width. Such a square will appear to be narrowed from the side based on the lateral parallels.

Oval and almond

Characterized by semicircles and arcs filing instead of any angles at all. Not everyone is a good fit for an oval. Filing an oval on a short free edge will result in a circle, which is not always attractive if the nail was originally barrel-shaped or had a round cuticle. A square or triangular nail shape at the cuticle will work well with an oval.

In order to leave enough length for rounding corners and eliminating growth points, it is necessary to estimate the distance from the growth point to the free edge when filing an oval. When filing the oval, if the length is insufficient, we obtain an angle—a sharp refraction from the growth point in the direction of the free edge.

From the side, this acute refraction angle will be clearly visible. Consequently, it is preferable to suggest an oval to customers who have low-set growth points. After filing, we are left with an extended roundness that lacks sharp angular bevels.

How to use a file to file an oval:

We insert the file under the free edge of the plate from below, pull the side roller so that it does not interfere, and begin to file from the growth point towards the central axis along the arc line. Having reached the top point of the length along the central axis, we move to the second side, and repeat the oval filing from the point of growth to the central axis. The primary task is to bring out even oval lateral parallels without corners, sagging and straight lines.

The principle of filing almonds is the same, albeit with a narrower focus. The almond shape is also known as a narrowed oval. It should also lack sharp bevels along the lateral parallels to the center, straight lines, and corners.

Filing of the almond shape is carried out from the lateral growth points in semi-arcs from below towards the central axis. Symmetrically.
The more it is necessary to narrow the oval into an almond shape, the greater the distance from the growth point to the tip is needed. This way we get a smooth transition and an elongated narrowing.

Viewed from the side, there should be no sharp narrowing with beveled corners; instead, the arcs from the growth points should be clearly visible.

Also, if the nails are initially flat and lack a noticeable upper arch running from edge to edge, we will not achieve a lovely "almond." The only way to solve this issue is to build up an artificial arch on the upper or lower form or tip in place of the straight, flat edge.

A flawless manicure requires meticulous filing of the nails, which come in a variety of shapes to suit different styles, including square, round, and almond. Having the proper knowledge of methods and equipment guarantees a flawless appearance and promotes healthy nails, whether you’re going for a more fashionable or natural look.

Triangle and stiletto

It is most frequently done on extended plates and has an extended, sharp tip. Also known as "cat’s claws." Medium and long length are required for filing. It is executed similarly to an almond shape, minus the rounding and with the elimination of a sharp angle that starts just above the growth point and moves toward the central axis. A prominent semicircular arch in the plate’s architecture is required for filing; otherwise, the nails won’t be strong and the length won’t transition beautifully.

Starting at the growth point, a wide file is inserted under the nail to draw the lateral parallels. The file forms a thin semi-arc from them and a sharp angle from the middle of the length to the tip.

Ballerina

Ballerina and pointe shoes are two terms for a trendy manicure.

First, remove the length with a file at a right angle to the central axis, as when forming a square.
Next, the filing is done in the same way as the "almond". The file is inserted under the nail plate and with left-right movements we form light smooth arcs towards the square edge. Without sharp bevels. For this shape, it is important to have a long nail plate.
The edges can also be filed with a clear or soft square.

It is advised that you use a buff or polisher to go over the nail’s surface and tips after filing in order to eliminate any imperfections, rough edges, or minor end corrections.

Lipstick

English lipstick-shaped nails. Although lipsticks have been around for a while, their popularity has only recently started to grow. To form the shape of the lipstick:

File the shape of a clear square. It is important that the free edge must be long;
File the nail diagonally at the end. Usually, the direction is chosen from the little finger to the thumb, but you can not follow this rule and tilt in the other direction. The bravest girls even combine the cut in different directions.

The angle of the cut also imparts freedom of choice. Usually, it is 45 degrees; however, in this instance, the form is not only unique but also useful and cozy to wear.

Choosing the nail shape correctly and keeping in mind the client’s initial data will make the filing process much simpler. Try to become proficient with every option on training tips beforehand if you’re a beginner.

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One comment on “Filing nails: types of shapes and techniques”

Tatiana

How to communicate to a customer that an oval has its bounds! She claims to be able to form an oval with a length greater than two, but even if she takes it and trips, I’m bad right now and I won’t do what she asks!

Nail Shape	Filing Technique
Square	File straight across the top and gently round the corners.
Oval	File the sides to create a subtle curve, then round off the tip.
Round	File in a curve following the natural shape of the nail.
Almond	File the sides to taper towards the center, creating a pointed tip.
Stilet

Anyone who wants to have well-groomed, fashionable nails must learn the art of nail filing. You can select the ideal manicure that best suits your hands and personality by being aware of the various nail art forms and applications.

Using the appropriate equipment and technique is crucial, regardless of your preference for a bold stiletto, a trendy almond, or a traditional oval shape. In addition to helping you get the right shape, careful, gentle filing maintains the strength and health of your nails.

Recall that practice makes perfect.