A popular method that provides a precise and gentle approach to nail care is the hardware manicure. In contrast to conventional techniques, this procedure makes use of an electric nail drill with a variety of attachments, enabling a thorough and effective manicure. It’s perfect for people who want a polished, clean look without using harsh chemicals or water.
A hardware manicure has several stages, and knowing them is crucial to getting the best results. To guarantee that the cuticles are neatly clipped, the nails are properly shaped, and the surface is smooth and ready for polish, each step is essential. Knowing these procedures will help you execute a manicure at home or in a salon that looks professional, regardless of your level of experience.
Stage | Description |
Preparation | Sanitize hands, remove old polish, and push back cuticles. |
Filing | Shape nails with a suitable file, adjusting length and edges. |
Cuticle Care | Use a cuticle bit to gently remove excess cuticle skin. |
Nail Surface | Smooth the nail surface using a buffing bit for evenness. |
Polishing | Finish by applying a base coat, polish, and topcoat. |
During a hardware manicure, the nails and cuticles are meticulously shaped and treated with specialized tools to produce an exact and polished finish. Nail preparation is the first step in this procedure, which is then followed by cuticle treatment, shaping, and polishing. Since each step is necessary to achieve a polished, smooth finish, this technique is appropriate for both novices and experts who want to keep their nails looking good.
- List of stages
- Removing the old coating
- Removing the length
- Removing the color coating and base
- Correction of irregularities, peeling and removal of material residues
- Separation of cuticle and creation of pocket
- Lifting the "skirt" of the cuticle
- Cleaning the pterygium and lateral sinuses
- Cuticle cutting
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List of stages
Professional instruction in hardware manicure entails a methodical approach that can be called a technique and imparted to students for real-world use. The following steps comprise the traditional plan, which is recognized by the majority of masters:
- Removing the old coating;
- Filing the shape;
- Creating and opening a pocket under the cuticle;
- Lifting the "skirt";
- Cleaning the pterygium and lateral sinuses;
- Cutting the cuticle.
With the nuances of working in a particular area of the nail, let’s examine each step individually.
Removing the old coating
Three steps are involved in removing the old coating: filing the length, removing the base and color coating, and fixing any irregularities and material residues.
Removing the length
A metal carbide or ceramic cutter with a blue notch is used for the procedure. It is positioned perpendicular to the free edge, and the length is removed to the desired length by moving from one side to the other. from one corner to the next. Right-handers operate in forward mode, while left-handers operate in reverse. The length is taken out of the right to the left corner by a left-hander and the opposite is true for a right-hander.
Working with the cutter’s nose or projecting portion at 20,000 to 30,000 rpm is essential. Keep the cutter from tilting in order to prevent hits or bounces.
Low speeds are reserved for dire situations, such as burning.
Potential reasons why something burns:
- Dull cutter. It does not clean, but smoothes the material with the release of heat at high speeds;
- Bent nozzle. It is misaligned and vibrates, taps and gives additional heat. It is necessary to change it, and you can work at high speeds without reducing the speed;
- Vibration of the device handle, faulty handle. Solution – you can reduce the speed;
- Fired nail plate. Solution – reduce the speed and work with less pressure;
- Sensitive nail plate. Solution – leave a small amount of base on the surface.
Three zones can be identified on the entire nail surface when the coating is removed:
- The central part and the free edge;
- Cuticle area and left side wall (right – for left-handers);
- Right side wall (left – for left-handers).
The most inconvenient zone is the third one. You have to turn the client’s hand 180 degrees in order to process it.
Removing the color coating and base
The material is thickest in the center and twice as thin at the cuticle and side walls. As such, when extracting, attention must be paid to both the pressure and the nozzle’s direction of movement. The pressure is higher in the center and lower at the cuticle and side walls. Additionally, the pressure will be higher in the side wall areas if there are any lumps and dings there.
In the first zone, working with long arched movements is advised. A thick layer of material is removed by the cutter’s movement against resistance, and a thin layer is removed by the cutter rotating in a smoothing direction. Processing thin regions of the coating with this method makes it easier to prevent cuts and other damage.
Correction of irregularities, peeling and removal of material residues
If peeling is present, it must be addressed right away. It is advised to get rid of them entirely. A regular file or a diamond cutter can be used to remove peeling.
The free edge, the cuticle region, or the side walls may all exhibit peeling of the coating.
- If it is on the free edge, remove it with light smoothing movements until the area disappears.
- If the peeling is at the side wall, it is better to remove it with the attachment in the direction of rotation, the hand seems to "follow" the cutter. This is a safe technique that removes a very thin layer of material.
- If the peeling is on the central part or at the cuticle, it is best to remove it with transverse smoothing movements. For right-handed people – move to the right. For left-handed people – to the left, without resistance from the cutter.
It is now necessary to examine the profile and nail tip, evaluating the arch’s state. If there are any hills or bumps, use a cutter and smooth arched movements to remove them.
Separation of cuticle and creation of pocket
A pocket beneath the cuticle can be opened in a few different ways:
- With a pusher;
- Orange stick;
- Oney Clean safe cutter;
- Other cutters with a sharp tip, for example: flame, bullet, bud, lentil.
If the cuticle remains motionless:
- The first reason may be that the master is not pushing it, but a dry, adherent pterygium.
- The second reason is cuts in the nail plate, deep scratches. The pusher can rest against such a scratch or cut and not move. To avoid damage to the nail plate in such cases, the pusher must be placed at a minimum angle, and moved with soft sliding movements.
- Another reason is the gluing of the eponychium, when the inner part of the cuticle grows to the nail plate, and when trying to move it, it causes discomfort to the client. In this case, you need to rest not on the skin, but go under the problem area with the sharp part of the tool, for example, a hatchet or an orange stick.
The most typical issues that arise when a pocket is formed and the cuticle is opened are:
- Eponychium adhesion;
- Skin damage and cuts when pushing back the cuticle;
- Hangs in the sinus areas;
- Accumulation of debris under the cuticle.
The pusher’s improper placement and motions are the root of all of these issues. It must not be set down flat. Forty-five degrees is the ideal angle.
You must use an orange stick, a sharp pusher, or a hatchet on the other side of a double-sided pusher if the glued areas cannot be separated using a pusher.
Lifting the "skirt" of the cuticle
A diamond attachment with a sharp nose and a flat main part works best to lift the "skirt." For instance, a lentil, cylinder with a red notch, or a bullet.
Depending on the client’s skin condition, you may need to work at speeds of 5,000 or more in order to lift the skirt. The speed increases with increasing skin roughness.
The raised cuticle is turned upward into a skirt or visor and raised at a ninety-degree angle using a cutter and pushing and smoothing motions.
You can assist yourself by using your other hand to gently tug the skin to the side or from the nail down when opening your sinuses. In order to avoid tearing this delicate transitional rectangular area, you cannot pull the skin diagonally away from the sinus.
Cleaning the pterygium and lateral sinuses
Three processing zones can be conditionally identified in the nail: the lateral ridges, the central sinuses, and the lateral sinuses.
- First, we go over the central part with the nose of the cutter.
- Then, with smooth smoothing movements, we move from the center to the sinuses. It is important not to pull the skin on the sinus areas and make sure that there are no adhesions in the pockets.
- The final stage is cleaning the pterygium in the lateral sinuses. It is performed with the sharp part of the cutter with a narrow nose in the downward direction and slightly to the side, along the line of the side roller. Only the nose of the cutter works so that the belly does not form cuts. At this stage, it is important to remove the entire pterygium without sawing through the growth points.
Cuticle cutting
You will need a spherical cutter to cut the cuticle. A diameter of 0.23–0.25 cm is ideal. The ideal distance is 0.25 cm.
The cuticle must be lifted to the visor and then thinned in order to be cut. It will be difficult to cut if this is not done. It ought to turn translucent. The cuticle needs to be cut after this. A flame or bullet attachment works well for this.
The client’s skin type will determine the different cutting technique:
Skin that is dry. clogs the cutter severely. As a result, cutting at a speed of at least 15,000 rpm is advised. It is preferable to use a red diamond cutter to make the cut, keeping in mind that oil moisturization will be required afterwards. After the manicure, your skin needs more moisture and protection, so don’t cut it perfectly.
Typical skin type. With a maximum speed of 15,000 rpm, the cutter runs. One can effortlessly separate the skin using light to medium pressure.
It is advised to pay attention to the handle’s or the device’s vibration when handling wet skin. Vibration causes skin tearing. We operate at low speeds, between 5,000 and 12,000 rpm, with little pressure. utilizing brief stitching motions. The exact location of the cutter’s round cutting zone should coincide with the cuticle line. If the skin "slips" when being cut, either the client’s finger needs to be moved, or the cutter is positioned improperly.
Ball diameters used for the cutter
The device’s vibration may also have an impact on the cuticle cut’s quality. particularly when skin is damp. Tiny burrs will appear as it tears.
Skin that is labeled as "rubber" has higher lipid levels. It is the most challenging and calls for the use of a blue abrasive nozzle to cut cuticles. You can use pears, balls, barrels, and lentils. If the technique is followed, everything turns out neatly even without intense pressure. Our rate of work is between 10,000 and 12,000 revolutions per minute. Only use a high speed if the client is not very sensitive.
There should be more pressure as well. It’s critical to progress with the work and avoid procrastinating.
To produce a "string" effect when cutting the rubber cuticle, pull it down or to the sides. You cannot move in a smoothing manner on rubber skin.
Slicing formula:
- It is necessary to raise the cuticle at 90 degrees and thin it to a state in which it seems that it is about to come off. The connection with the skin should be minimal.
- After this, it is necessary to undercut the "skirt" with thin, small movements. We work at a speed of 10,000 revolutions and higher. Undercutting is performed with the volume part of the cutter, the belly.
- After thinning, the cut is performed with the same volume part at a speed of 5,000 to 25,000 revolutions, in depending on the client"s skin characteristics. The cuticle is raised upward with a cutter and cut off to the side. With light pressure.
It takes time to become proficient in each step. Start by practicing after studying every detail in theory. Having the chance to get feedback from an accomplished expert during the process of becoming proficient with the milling cutter is beneficial. A professional is defined by their ability to execute small details with accuracy and precision. Observe them. Learn how to combine and master new techniques.
If you have any questions about carrying out the stages of hardware manicure, please leave a comment for us.
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4 comments on “Phased analysis of the execution of hardware manicure”
CatherineElviraOlga
Editors
The accuracy and outcomes of the hardware manicure technique make it well worth the practice required to master. You can accomplish a professional finish at home by paying close attention to every step, from prepping the nails to selecting the appropriate instruments.
Never forget that being safe is essential. Don’t rush the process; take your time learning how to operate the equipment properly. In this manner, you can have a gorgeous, long-lasting manicure while protecting your skin and nails.
The hardware manicure can become a mainstay in your nail care regimen with time and attention to detail, giving you salon-caliber results in the convenience of your own home.